Catalogue


A perfect red : empire, espionage, and the quest for the color of desire /
Amy Butler Greenfield.
edition
1st Harper Perennial ed.
imprint
New York ; Toronto : Harper Perennial, 2006, c2005.
description
viii, 338 p. [8] p. of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 20 cm.
ISBN
9780060522766
format(s)
Book
Holdings
More Details
imprint
New York ; Toronto : Harper Perennial, 2006, c2005.
isbn
9780060522766
catalogue key
7636612
 
Includes bibliographical references (p. 293-318) and index.
A Look Inside
First Chapter
A Perfect Red
Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire

Chapter One

The Dryer's Lot

Forty miles west of Florence, in a fertile Tuscan valley not far from the Mediterranean Sea, lies the serene and sunlit city of Lucca. Known throughout the region for its trade in olive oil, flour, and wine, modern-day Lucca is not much more than a provincial market town, but its great piazzas, Romanesque churches, and medieval towers bear mute witness to a more illustrious past. Eight hundred years ago, Lucca was a power to be reckoned with: its luminous silks, dyed in jewel-like tones, were one of the wonders of the thirteenth century. No one on the Continent could equal them, though many tried. Sold only by Europe's most exclusive merchants, Lucchese silks included smooth taffetas, intricate damasks, and elaborate brocades figured with fleur-de-lis, griffins, dragons, peacocks, and even entire hunting scenes. All were fabrics fit for noblemen, princes, and kings.

Advantageously situated on a major road between Rome and northern Europe, Lucca enjoyed peace and prosperity for many years. Like most Tuscan towns, however, it had its share of long-standing family feuds. These quarrels blazed into open warfare in 1300, intertwining with a larger struggle that was raging throughout much of Tuscany, forcing many people, including the poet Dante, to flee the region. A rich prize in a troubled land, Lucca found itself under frequent attack from both without and within. The violence culminated in 1314, when a band of Lucchese exiles joined a Pisan army and sacked the city, robbing, raping, and murdering their enemies.

Fearing for their lives, many of Lucca's dyers and silk workers fled to Venice, a neutral city a hundred miles away. The Council of Venice offered the refugees generous loans, but to no one's surprise there was a catch to the deal; the Venetians, after all, hadn't created an empire out of their swampy archipelago by giving their money away. Eager to learn the secrets of Lucchese silks, they required the refugees to repay the loans, not in cash but in Lucchese goods and tools.

Destitute, many refugees accepted these terms. In doing so, however, they betrayed their city and put their own lives in peril. They would spend the rest of their days with a bounty on their heads, because Lucca's guild laws prescribed death for any Lucchese practicing the silk trade outside the city. According to statute, the men were to be strangled, the women burned.

Lucca's draconian guild laws were a sign of the times, for textiles were a matter of life and death in Renaissance Europe. In many ways, they were to the Renaissance what computing and biotech are to our own time: a high-stakes industry rife with intense rivalries and cutthroat competition -- an industry with the power to transform society.

With textiles, the transformation began in medieval times and accelerated after 1350. Aristocrats who survived the Black Death had inheritances to spend, and rising merchants and lawyers were eager to ape their fashionable ways. As each tried to outdo the other, they insisted on wardrobes far larger and fancier than their grandparents had known; their houses, too, were more extravagantly furnished. People of lesser station were also buying cloth at market stalls and clothier's shops -- and buying more of it as the decades wore on. Bolt by bolt, their purchases helped fuel the rise of Europe.

Like the spice trade, the textile industry created new markets and trade networks, but its importance did not end there. Spices were usually grown and processed in the Far East, but textiles were something Europeans could produce for themselves, and for this reason their impact on Europe was more profound. Textiles spurred the invention of new technologies -- new types of spinning machines, new methods for bleaching -- and shaped the very pattern of work itself.

By the fifteenth century, hundreds of thousands of Europeans, from humble shepherds to great merchants, made a living from textiles, and many a nobleman depended on the wealth they created. Because each step in the cloth-making process was handled by different craftsmen, more than a dozen people could be involved in fashioning a single piece of fabric. The silk workers of Lucca, for example, included in their ranks a host of specialized workers: reelers to unwrap the cocoons, throwers to twist the thread, boilers to clean it, dyers to color it, and warpers and weavers to turn the thread into cloth.

Wool, the most common fiber in Europe, required even more specialization. After shepherds raised the sheep and shearers fleeced them, washers cleaned the raw wool and carders pulled the fibers apart with bristles. Spinners spun those fibers into yarn with distaffs and spindles and passed the yarn to the weavers, who wove it into cloth. Wool cloth then had to be "finished," a process that involved fullers or "walkers" who washed the fabric in troughs of water treated with fuller's earth, a mineral compound that promoted absorption. (Many walkers trampled the mixture into the cloth with their bare feet, but prosperous fullers kept their boots on and used a millwheel and hammers instead.) The soaking-wet cloth was then hung out on wooden frames called tenters; tenterhooks held the fabric fast and stretched it to the right dimensions as it dried. While still damp, the cloth could be brushed and sheared several times for a finer, softer nap. The fabric was then handed to the dyers. Although dyers usually worked with finished cloth, sometimes they treated the unspun wool instead, a costly practice that yielded the most intense and enduring colors and gave us the expression "dyed in the wool."

No matter what fiber was used, the textile industry required immense amounts of skilled labor, which is why textiles were a lifeline for many communities. A thriving cloth business meant jobs, and jobs meant coins in the purse and food on the table. If the business faltered or failed, people went hungry and lost their homes ...

A Perfect Red
Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire
. Copyright © by Amy Greenfield. Reprinted by permission of HarperCollins Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Available now wherever books are sold.

Excerpted from A Perfect Red: Empire, Espionage, and the Quest for the Color of Desire by Amy Butler Greenfield
All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.
Full Text Reviews
Appeared in Choice on 2006-01-01:
The royal reds and blues for dyeing regal cloth and giving life to Rubens' and Rembrandt's art are lively topics of current historical reportage and literary interest (Anthony S. Travis's The Rainbow Makers, CH, Oct'93, 31-0945; Michel Pastoureau's Blue, CH, Jul'02, 39-6201). The perfect red, the scarlet of carminic acid, is extracted from the Mexican cochineal insect. In 300 breathless pages, Greenfield sweeps through 18 chapters with captivating titles; "A Lump of Coal" tips the hat to William Henry Perkin and the late-19th-century mauve decades. It is great fun, a fast read, and honestly researched with solid notes and extensive bibliography. If there is one caveat, it is lack of depth on the science side. Those desperately seeking organic chemistry and something of Simon Garfield's attention to engineering details (Mauve, CH, Dec'01, 39-2161) will be disappointed, but only for a moment, as the lessons of history carry the reader through intrigue and court politics to society and culture in war and peace. And there is a bonus for which HarperCollins should claim credit--the four-sheet color tip-in that has lost little of the striking colors of the art in reproduction. Perhaps the illuminated manuscript and the Rembrandts are a bit dark . . . but the reds? Perfect! ^BSumming Up: Highly recommended. All levels. L. W. Fine Columbia University
Appeared in Library Journal on 2005-04-01:
Few Americans know that the red coloring of soft drinks, syrups, various foods, and even makeup comes from-a bug! Greenfield, whose grandfather and great-grandfather were dyers, tells the story of Dactylopius coccus, known as the cochineal, which was domesticated in pre-Columbian Mexico and featured prominently in world trade from the 16th to the 20th century. Greenfield tells the cochineal's story with an agreeable attention to historical nuggets. Cameo appearances include a dejected Linnaeus, whose entire precious sample of the mysterious insect was wiped out by an overzealous assistant mistaking them for harmful parasites. But the main action lies with a fascinating array of royals, traders, pirates, and entrepreneurs, all vying for the source of the most beautiful crimson ever known. Greenfield packs a dissertation's worth of history into her story without bogging down in the details and brings her subject into the present with a visit to a family of Zapotec artisans producing hand-dyed goods for an upscale export market. The notes and select bibliography address some of the topics mentioned too briefly in the text. Highly recommended for public and academic libraries.-Lisa Klopfer, Eastern Michigan Univ., Ypsilanti (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Appeared in Publishers Weekly on 2005-03-14:
Elusive, expensive and invested with powerful symbolism, red cloth became the prize possession of the wealthy and well-born, Greenfield writes in her intricate, fully researched and stylishly written history of Europe's centuries-long clamor for cochineal, a dye capable of producing the brightest, strongest red the Old World had ever seen. Discovered by Spanish conquistadors in Mexico in 1519, cochineal became one of Spain's top colonial commodities. Striving to maintain a trade monopoly, Spain fiercely guarded the secrets of cochineal cultivation in Mexico and only after centuries of speculation (was the red powder derived from plant or animal?) did 18th-century microscopes bring the mystery to light. Greenfield recounts the wild, clandestine attempts by adventurer naturalists to cultivate both the cochineal insect and its host plant, nopal, beyond their native Mexico, acts of folly driven by the desire for scientific fame and commercial profit. Greenfield's narrative culminates in the 19th-century discovery of synthetic dyes that, for a period, eclipsed cochineal. However, as she explains, owing to its safety, cochineal is back to stay as a cosmetics and food dye. Greenfield's absorbing account encompasses the history of European dyers' guilds, the use of pigments by artists such as Rembrandt and Turner, and the changing associations of the color red, from the luxurious robes of kings and cardinals to its latter-day incarnation as the garb of the scarlet woman. 8 pages of color illus. not seen by PW. Agent, Tina Bennett. (May 2) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Reviews
Review Quotes
'œFascinating...Greenfield has given us a superbly researched history of cochineal red, full of angles and tangents, curiosities and arcana.'
"Fascinating...Greenfield has given us a superbly researched history of cochineal red, full of angles and tangents, curiosities and arcana."
'œGreenfield does what the best historical authors do--follows the thread of a story through history without missing a stitch.'
"Greenfield does what the best historical authors do--follows the thread of a story through history without missing a stitch."
'œWith A PERFECT RED, she does for [red] what Mark Kurlansky in SALT did for that common commodity.'
"With A PERFECT RED, she does for [red] what Mark Kurlansky in SALT did for that common commodity."
"A marvelous book... Meticulously researched, this saga will enchant lovers of historical mysteries, fascinating characters, and world economics."
'œ[An] intricate history...Greenfield paints a broad historical panorama, never neglecting the intimate, eccentric, and often absurd human details.'
"[An] intricate history...Greenfield paints a broad historical panorama, never neglecting the intimate, eccentric, and often absurd human details."
'œDelightful, rollicking history . . . A fun read, well-supported by extensive research.'
"Delightful, rollicking history . . . A fun read, well-supported by extensive research."
'œA fascinating story of greed and subterfuge, mixing fashion, folly and ingenuity in equal measure... Written with style and verve.'
"A fascinating story of greed and subterfuge, mixing fashion, folly and ingenuity in equal measure... Written with style and verve."
'œA gem of accessible history.'
"A gem of accessible history."
'œA marvelous book... Meticulously researched, this saga will enchant lovers of historical mysteries, fascinating characters, and world economics.'
To find out how to look for other reviews, please see our guides to finding book reviews in the Sciences or Social Sciences and Humanities.
Summaries
Main Description
In the sixteenth century, one of the world's most precious commodities was cochineal, a legendary red dye treasured by the ancient Mexicans and sold in the great Aztec marketplaces, where it attracted the attention of the Spanish conquistadors. Shipped to Europe, the dye created a sensation, producing the brightest, strongest red the world had ever seen. Soon Spain's cochineal monopoly was worth a fortune. As the English, French, Dutch, and other Europeans joined the chase for cochineal -- a chase that lasted for more than three centuries -- a tale of pirates, explorers, alchemists, scientists, and spies unfolds. A Perfect Red evokes with style and verve this history of a grand obsession, of intrigue, empire, and adventure in pursuit of the most desirable color on earth.

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